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Physical Geology Lecture
Outlines # 3 |
- Lectures 20, 21- Running Water
- Reading: Chapter 16 of Tarbuck and
Lutgets, 8th edition
- Topics:
- 1. Water
- 2. Hydrologic cycle
- Evaporation/Transpiration
- Condensation
- Precipitation
- Infiltration
- Runoff
- 3. Properties of moving water
- 4. Sediment Transport
- 5. Types of River Sytems
-
- 1. Water, water everywhere
-
- Liquid Water:
- Distinctive feature of Earth, the blue planet
- Right temperature range
- Global climate-self regulating system
- Water is the most powerful erosive agent on earth
- Even in deserts
- Bryce Canyon
- Without active tectonics earth would be worn down to to a
smooth sphere.
-
- Mars:
- Ice caps
- Permafrost?
- Erosional evidence for episodic flow of water
- Valles marineris
- Valles marineris
detail
- Due to asteroid impacts?
- Or was the atmosphere thicker and the climate warmer in the
past?
-
- Venus:
- Too hot due to greenhouse effect
- No liquid water
- Evidence for episodic flow of a fluid.
- We don't know what, maybe molten salt?
-
- The volume of water on Earth is estimated to be about 1.36
billion cubic kilometers with:
-
- 97 % in the oceans
2 % in glaciers
l % in streams, lakes, ground water, and the atmosphere
- 2. The Hydrologic Cycle
-
- Continuous exchange of water between the surface, the subsurface
and the atmosphere
- The Cycle
-
- Evaporation:
-
- Liquid to vapor
- As temperature increases
- Radiant energy from the sun heats water, causing the water
molecules to become so active that some of them rise into the
atmosphere as vapor.
-
- Transpiration.
-
- Plants absorb water through the roots and release it through
the leaves.
-
-
- Condensation.
-
- As water vapour rises, it cools and eventually condenses
to liquid or ice.
-
- Why are clouds often fluffy on top, but flat at the bottom?
- Clouds from a
the shuttle
- Clouds from the ground
-
- Dew Point: depends on water saturation (humidity) and temperature.
-
-
- Precipitation.
- Water released from clouds as rain, sleet, snow, or hail.
- Begins after water vapor becomes too heavy to remain in atmospheric
air currents and falls.
-
- Infiltration.
- A portion of the precipitation that reaches the Earth's surface
seeps into the ground.
- Depends on:
- Slope
- Amount and type of vegetation
- soil type and rock type
- whether the soil is already saturated by water.
- The more openings in the surface (cracks, pores, joints),
the more infiltration occurs.
- Runoff.
- Water that doesn't infiltrate the soil flows on the surface
as runoff.
- Can also come from melted snow and ice.
When there is a lot of precipitation, soils become saturated
with water.
- Additional rainfall can no longer enter it.
- Runoff will eventually drain into creeks, streams, and rivers,
adding a large amount of water to the flow.
- Sheet flow
- Stream Flow
-
- Ground water:
- The water that percolates into the ground also flows through
the pore spaces in the rocks or soil.
- It can be tapped by wells.
- It contributes to streams, or draws water from streams depending
on the setting.
-
- Running Water
- Streams modify their channels
-
- Gradient - slope over which the stream flows
-
- The ULTIMATE BASE LEVEL is sea level - streams will not erode
their base below base level
-
-
- There may be temporary base levels which control the behavior
of segments of a stream - a dam, for example
-
- Imagine constructing a dam across a river. Above the dam
the river begins to deposit material as it adjusts to the new
base level.
Below the dam erosion can occur at the base of the dam.
- A lake forms behind the dam - becomes a temporary base level
-
- 3. Properties of Moving Water
-
- Stream Discharge = Width x Depth
x Velocity
(cubic feet/second, cfs: or cubic meters per second)
-
- Stream Competence= Biggest particle
a stream can carry
- Depends on velocity
-
- Stream Capacity= Volume of material
a stream can transport
- Depends on discarge
-
- Mississippi River near its mouth:
- High capacity, low competence
-
- Cheat River at flood:
- High competence, moderate capacity
- Big Boulder tranported
by 1Cheat River 985 flood
4. Sediment Transport
-
- Streams carry material as:
- DISSOLVED LOAD
- Ions in solution
- SUSPENDED LOAD
- Particles of silt or mud suspended by turbulence
- BED LOAD
- Rocks pushed along the bottom of the channel
-
- Laminar flow= smoth
flow, no mixing between layers
- Turbulent Flow=
mixing between layers
-
- Rapids
-
- In general, the suspended material is finer than the bed
load and is transported faster
than the bed load material.
-
- As velocity changes, material in the bed load may be suspended
and transported with a higher velocity
-
- 5. Types of River Sytems
-
- Depend on changes of gradient
along the profile
-
- Mt. Streams
- High gradient
- Rough channels
- Narrow valleys
- High competence, low capacity
- Very coarse sediment
-
- Braided Streams
- Moderate gradient
- Multiple active channels
- Wide valley
- Channels change rapidly
- Moderate capacity, moderate to high gradient
- Tok River
-
- Meandering Streams
- Single channels that makes big loops
- Due to vorticity of flow
- Low gradient
- Cut bank
- Point bar
- Changes of velocity across channel
- Meanders migrate over time
- Oxbow lakes
- Photo
- Kuskokuim river
- Lectures 22- Floods and Drainage Patterns
-
- Reading: Chapter 16
-
- Topics:
1. Test results, Review,
2. Floods
3. Recurrence Interval
4. Flood Damage
5. Controlling Floods
6. Drainage Basins
7. Alluvial Fans and Deltas
- Power Point Presentation Floods
-
- 2. Flooding
- Flood Plain Floods
The floodplain is a natural part of the river system
- Flooding is takes palce recurrently, sometimes every year
- Floodplain sediements are mud and silt: good for agriculture
- Cities in the past tended to be locanted nest to rivers for
access to transportantion
- Many cities have expanded into the floodplain
- Meandering rivers from natural levies that keep the river
in the channel most of the time
- During the flood events the levies break
- Large areas go under water sometimes for an extended period
of time
-
- Flash Floods
- Flash floods take place in narrow valleys
- After heavy rainfal water is focused through a small area
- Very fast moving water, powerfull and destructuve
- Lasts only a short time
- Flood covers a small area
- Common in areas of episodic rainfall (semi-deserts)
3. Recurrence Interval (Flood Frequency)
- Average Time Between Events of a Given Size or larger
- Like earthquakes:
- small events are common
- large events are rare but catastrophic
- Most urban planning takes into account frequent, common flood
events
- Extreme events (hundred-year flood) are usually beyond our
control
4. Flood Damage
Water Damage-This is the obvious result of a flood
Flood Erosion
- Not so obvious
- During flood the competency of the stream is much greater
than normal
- Lots of bank erosion occur
- The river can change course dramatically
-
- Flood Deposits
- As the flood water subsides it looses its ability to carry
load
- Thick layers of mud, rock, debris are left behing
-
- 5. Controlling Floods
- Dams-
- Store some of the run off
- Decrease risk of flooding downstrean (up to the reservoir's
capacity)
- Change the stream gradient
- Eventually fill up with sediment
- Levies-
- Keep the river in its channel
- They decrease the storage capacity of the river basin
- Increase the chance of catastrophic flooding during extreme
events
- Shortcuts
- Avoid meanders which tend to pond the water.
- This increases the velocity of flow
- Decrease the storage capacity of the river basin
- Increase the chance of flooding down stream
-
- Lesson:
- Don't mess with the rivers
- Don't build on floodplains
- Disaster aid may be counterproductive because it encourages
people to remain in flood-prone areas
-
- 6. Drainage Basins
- A network of streams that converge into one larger one
- Tributaries-order
- Usually limited by topographic divides
- Stream flow is determined by rainfall over its entire drainage
area, not just over the course of the stream
- 7. Drainage Patterns
- The drainage pattern speaks about the relationship between
erosion and tectonics
- Erosion tends to level the land
- Tectonics tends to make highs and lows
Dendritic Pattern- Streams are developiong without much
regards to the rocks
Radial Pattern- Flow away from a high topographic area
Rectangular Pattern-
- A network of fractures determines where the streams lie
- The Cheat River is controlled by two fracture sets one NE-SW,
one NW-SE
-
- Trellis Pattern-
- Resistant ridges of folded rockguide the streams
- The Appalachian Valley and Ridge is a great example
-
- Relationship between streams and uplift
- Rapid uplift leads to:
- Change of base level
- Rapid incision
- Steep canyon walls
- Incised streams are not free to move laterally
- If a river already exists when uplift begins it is likely
to cut across structure
- Example: Appalachian water gaps
-
- 8. Deltas & Alluvial Fans
Alluvial Fans
- Cones of debris that form at the foot of mountians in arid
climates
- When river goes into the valley it looses velocity, drops
much of its load
- Cone is usually traversed by braided streams
-
- Deltas
How the stream load gets dumped into a basin
Distributary Channels
Progradation vs. Subsidence
- Bedding Types
Topset Beds- flat-near sea level
Foreset Beds- steep
Bottomset Beds -flat- in the basin
- Lectures 22- Glaciers and Glaciations
- Reading: Chapter 18 of Tarbuck and
Lutgets, 8th edition
-
- Topics:
- 1. Intro to glaciers
- 2. Origin of glaciers
- 3. Movement of glaciers
- 4. Types of glacier
- 5. Glacial Landforms
- Glacial Erosion
- Glacial Deposits
- 6. Glaciations
- 7. Evidence from the past
-
- Objectives:
- 1. Define the term glacier, and explain the difference between
valley glaciers and ice sheets.
2. Explain how a glacier moves.
3. Describe the features and landforms caused by glacial erosion
and glacial deposits.
4. Explain what an ice age is.
5. Identify the indirect effects of glaciers, and list some of
the possible causes of glaciation.
GLACIER
- Large body of moving ice on land
- Ice must reach a minimum thickeness before it starts to flow
- Snow fields are not glaciers
- Polar sea ice sheets are not glaciers
- Formed on land
- Recrystallization of snow
- Evidence of movement
- Alpine glaciation
- Continental glaciation
Hydrologic Cycle
- Glaciers contain about 2% of the Earth's water
- During glacial periods water is trapped in glaciers-
- sea level drops
- continental shelves become dry ground
- During warm periods sea level rises
- Shelves and lowlying parts of the continents are flooded
Glaciers-Where they are
- Develop where all of annual snow doesnt melt away in
warm seasons
- Polar regions
- Heavy winter snowfall
- High elevations
- 85% in Antarctica
- 10% in Greenland
Types of Glaciers
- Valley glacier
- Continental Glaciers:
- Ice sheets (big)
- Ice cap (small)
Formation and Growth of Glaciers
Growth
- Snow metamorphoses to firn, then to glacier ice
- Glacial Budgets
- Negative budget - wastage exceeds accumulation
- Positive budget- accumulation exceeds wastage
- Zone of accumulation
- Where some snow remains after the melt season (above snow
line)
- Zone of Wastage
- Where all snow & some glacier melt (below snow line)
- Terminus- movement of the front of glacier reflects
budget
- Advancing glacier-
- positive budget - terminus moves forward
- Receding glacier
- negative budget - terminus retreats
Wastage
- Wastage of glaciers ("shrinkage")
- Melting
- more melting at lower elevations
- Evaporation
- Calving into Icebergs
- where a glacier flows onto a sea
Movement of Glaciers
- Valley Glaciers
- Gravity is the driving force
- Sliding along its base -basal sliding
- Internal flowage- plastic flow
- Crevasses (big cracks)
- helo the glacier negotiate obstacles
- form along the edges of the glacier
- where the glacier goes over a bump
- Ice sheets
- Move downward & outward from central high
- Base of the ice sheet may be level or even basin shaped
Glacial Erosion
Under glacier
- Abrasion & plucking
- Bedrock polished & striated
- Rock flour washes out of glacier
- Polishing and rounding
- Striations- scratches & grooves on rock
Above glacier
- Frost wedging takes place
- Erosion by glaciers steepens slopes
- Makes "U" shaped valleys
- Erosional Landscapes Associated with Alpine Glaciation
- Cirque- A large bowl at the head of valley glacier
- U-shaped valleys
- Hanging valleys
- Sharp peaks (horns)
- Arete- sharp ridge
- Truncated spurs
- Triangular facets
- Rock basin lakes (tarns)
- Rounded knobs at low elevation- rouche moutonnees
Erosional Landscapes Associated with Continental Glaciation
- Grooved and striated bedrock
- Grooves may be channels
- Rounded hills & mountains
Glacial Deposition
- Till
- Unsorted glacial debris
- Erratic- big rock transported by glaciers
- Moraine- elongated body of till
- Lateral Moraine
- Medial Moraine- where tributaries join
-Terminal Moraine
- -Recessional Moraine
- Erratic-Alberta, Canada
Other Glacial Landforms
- Drumlins-
- Elongated hills of glacial till
- Point down-glacier
- Eskers
- Sinuous ridges of stratified till
- Form in tunnels under the ice sheet
- Some times 100 km long or more
-
- Glacial Lakes
- Pluvial Lakes-
- Due to wetter climate
- Examples: Lake Bonneville, Death Valley
- Lake Bonneville flood into Snake River Canyon
- Proglacial Lakes
- In front of the glacial sheet
- Ice dammed lakes
- Examples:
- Great Lakes,
- Lake Missoula
- Lake Bonneville- 14,000 yrs ago- Utah
- Lake Bonneville Flood
-The lake was up to 1000 feet deep
-A ridge on the north side gave way
-Peak flow 33 million cubic feet/second
-33 MCF would fill in a tanker train 165 miles long
-A raft would move at 75 mph on a wave 300 ft high
-Flood left behind giant ripples
Glacial ages
- Northern Europe & North America heavily glaciated
- Peak of glaciation 18,000 years ago
- Ended about 10,000
- We are still in the cold part of the climate cycle
Episodic climate changes
At peak glaciation
- Average global temperature only 5 degrees colder
Effects of Past Glaciation
- Glacial ages
- Direct effects in North America
- Scoured much of Canada
- Cut Great Lakes
- Deposited till & flattened Midwest
- Extensive alpine glaciation in mountains
- Indirect effects
- Pluvial lakes
- Lowering of sea level
- Crustal rebound due to removal of the weight of the glaciers
from the continents
-
- Evidence for older glaciation
- Tillite depositsglacial striations
- changes in sea level
- changes in global temperature
- cold weather fossil faunas and floras
- Late Paleozoic glaciation
-Evidence for a supercontinent
- Precambrian glaciation
- Causes for glaciation
- Astronomical Causes (Milankovitch cycles)
- Changes in eccentricity of earths orbit (100,000 yr cycle)
- Earth farther from sun - colder
- Wobble of rotation axis (41,000 yr cycle)
- More tilt - longer, colder winters over more area
- Precession of equinox (23,000 yr cycle)
- Cohincidence of winter with largest distance from the sun-
colder climate
- Cohincidence of winter with shortest distance from sun- warmer
climate
- Variations in solar radiation
- Atmospheric Causes
- More CO2 (Greenhouse) - warmer climate
- Volcanic ash - colder climate
- Tectonic causes
- Continents near the poles - promotes glaciation
- Oceanic circulation patterns change depending on position of
continents
- Albedo- measure of the reflectivity of the Earth's
surface
- Water absorbs heat from the sun
- Ice reflects heat back
- Once large areas of the Earth are covered by snow or ice,
glacial conditions may continue regardless of astronomic changes
that would otherwise lead to a warming trend
- All the above interact in complicated ways
- Lectures 24- Deserts
- Reading: Chapter 19 of Tarbuck and
Lutgets, 8th edition
Topics:
- What is a Desert
- Causes for Desert conditions
- Distribution of Deserts
- Characteristics of Deserts
- Characteristics of Colorado Plateau and Basin and Range Provinces
Desert
- Region with low precipitation
- Arid Region
- Less than 25 cm (10 in) of rain per year
- Very dry, little or no vegetation
- Semi Arid Region
- 25 to 50 cm/yr (10 to 20 in) of rain
- Sparce vegetation
- May support agriculture
- Wet periods and drought periods
- Much of SW USA is semidesert
Distribution of Deserts
- Caused by global wind patterns
- Air circulates from areas of high atmospheric pressure to
low pressure
- Hot air is light and rises (low pressure)
- Cold air is heavy and sinks (high pressure)
- As air rises it cools down (drops moisture)
- As air sinks it warms up (picks up moisture)
-
- Air rises at the tropics (wet) and sinks
at mid latitude (dry)
- Many deserts are related to descending air masses
- Located in bands about 30 degrees latitude North and South
- "Horse Latitudes"
- Examples:
- North Africa
- Sonora Desert (USA)
- Nevada Desert (USA)
- Kalahari (Southern Africa)
- Patagonia (Argentina)
- W. Australia
-
- Earths rotation adds a twist to wind
circulation patterns
- Coriolis Force
- Air flows clockwise in Northern hemisphere
- Counter clock wise in Southern Hemisphere
- Winds tend to blow east to west
- Deserts are located on downwind side
- Deserts on West coast of continents
Was this hurricane (or typhoon) in the N
or S Hemisphere?
Other Causes for Deserts
- Air picks up most moisture over the oceans
- Areas down wind from large continents are dry
- Rain shadow of mountains
- Central Asian Deserts
- Nevada Desert
- Cold Ocean currents
- Atacama Desert (Western South America)
- Polar Deserts
- Descending air, high pressure
- Antartica, Greenland, N. Alaska
Some characteristics of deserts
- Ephemeral Streams
- Lack of through-flowing streams
- Internal drainage
- Land-locked basins
- Desert thunderstorms
- Flash floods
- Mudflows
- Stream channels normally dry
- covered with sand & gravel
- Narrow canyons with vertical walls
- Little chemical weathering
- Desert topography typically steep and angular
- Rapid down cutting during floods
- Steep canyons
Desert Features in S.W. United States
- Colorado Plateau
- Mostly flat-lying sedimentary beds
- Cut by steep canyons
- Landscape features:
Basin and Range Province
- Mountains & valleys bounded by faults
- Alluvial fans; bajada
- Playa lake; playa
- Lectures 25- Wind
- Reading: Chapter 19 of Tarbuck and
Lutgets, 8th edition
Topics:
- Review
- Rocky vs. Sandy deserts
- Wind Erosion
- Wind Deposition
- Loess
- Dunes
Sandy vs. Rocky Deserts
- Popular view: Deserts full of sand
- Most deserts are rocky
- Wind transports dry fine grain sediment (clay, silt, sand)
- Need constant supply of sand to make a dune
- Sand comes from a river system or a beach
- Usually wind removes sand leaving behind layers of rocks
- Desert Pavement
Wind Action
- Strong in desert because:
- Low humidity
- Great temperature ranges
- Big pressure differences
- Effective wind erosion in deserts
- Sediment is dry
- Lack of vegetation
Wind Transportation
- Similar to a river
- Suspended Load
- Silt and clay size particles in the air
- Bedload
- Sand jumps along the ground
- Deflation
- Removal of loose fine particles
- Leaves behind a desert pavement
Wind Erosion
- Abrasion
- Sandblasting of rocks
- Polished surfaces
- Ventifacts
- Facetted rocks
- Blowouts
- Depresions caused by deflation
- Affects not only deserts
- Coastal areas
- Farms
- Loss of soil
- Oklahoma Dust Bowl, 1930s
- Tractors became available
- Big area plowed
- A few dry years
Wind Deposition
- Loess
- Silt from outwash of continental glaciers
- Makes great soil for wheat farming
- Cover parts of Mid-west, Idaho, Russia, Western Europe
- Sand Dunes
- Sand pushed up gentle windward slope
- Falls down steep lee slope
- Slip face dips 34 degrees
- Dune migrates downwind
- Interdune area
- Internal stratification of a dune is not parallel to the
ground
- Preserved as cross-bedded sandstone
- Ripples- small scale dunes on a larger dune
Types of Dune
- Barchan
- Crescent shaped, open down wind
- Horns point down wind
- Edges of the dune migrate faster than central portion
- Transverse dune
- Ridges perpendicular to wind
- Form by connecting together barchan dunes
- Found in areas with abundant sand supply
- Parabolic dune
- Crescent Shaped, open up wind
- Horns point up wind
- Vegetation anchors parts of the dune
- Those areas get left behind
- Common in coastal areas
- Longitudinal dune
- Ridges parallel to wind direction
- Due to changes of wind direction about a mean
Namibian Desert dunes
Entrada Sandstone- Utah- Jurassic Sand Sea
Dune Field near Kaiser Crater- Mars
Source of sand in Mars?
Asteroid impacts
- Lectures 26- The Sea floor
Reading: Chapter 13 of Tarbuck and
Lutgets, 8th edition
Ocean Basins
Topics
- History
- Origin of Ocean
- Oceans vs. Continents
- Methods of Surveying the Sea Floor
- Features of the Seafloor
- Passive Continental Margins
- Turbidity Currents
- Active continetal Margins
- Mid Ocean ridges
- Black Smokers
History
- Seafloor was one of the great mysteries
- Inaccessible and unknown until recently
- Legend of Atlantis (reported by Plato, 350 BC)
- Continent located offshore Gibraltar sinks
- This legend persisted until recently
- What is wrong with this legend
- What is right
Origin of the Ocean
- Water
- Released during degassing of early Earth
- From fragments of comets
- From volcanic eruptions
- Salt from chemical weathering on land
- Rivers continually add salts to the sea
- Seas can dry out and leave thick layers of rock salt
Continents vs. Oceans
- Fundamental difference
- Oceanic crust is dense (2900 kg/m3)
- Continental crust is buoyant (2700 kg/m3)
- This is why there are ocean basins
- What is wrong with the myth of Atlantis:
- You can't get rid of a continent so easily
- What is right:
- The margins of continents do sink sometimes
- Due to Earthquakes
- Due to Slow subsidence
Methods of Studying the Sea Floor
- Depth sounding
- Dredging, coring
- Sea Floor Drilling
- Submersibles (Alvin, Sinkai)
- Echo Sounder
- Seismic Profiler
- Remote Surveys: Magnetic, Gravity, Seismic Refraction
- Deep Sea Cameras
Features of the Sea Floor
- Depth of the ocean depends on the age of the sea floor
- Deepest near the continents (particularly at the trenches)
- Shallower along the mid ocean ridges (submarine mountain
ranges)
- Why?
- Young oceanic crust is warm and buoyant
- Old oceanic crust is cold and heavy
- Continental Margins
- Passive
- Active
- Oceanic trench
- Midoceanic ridge
- Seamounts
Passive Continental Margins
- Continental shelf, slope, rise
- The Continental Rise
- Types of Sedimentation
- Turbidity currents
- Abyssal plains
Turbidity currents
- Underwater avalanches
- Sediment transported by gravity, not by moving water
- Discovered only recently (1929)
- TransAtlantic cable broken
- Turbidites are very common in the rock record
- Turbidites move sediment from the continental shelf to the
slope and basin
Active Continental Margins
- On land earthquakes, young mountain belt, volcanoes
- Off shore Continental shelf, continental slope, oceanic trench
Oceanic Trenches
- Deepest parts of the Ocean
- Up to 12,000 meters deep (Mt. Everest is less than 9000 m
high)
- Located along subduction zones
- Earthquakes of the Benioff seismic Zones
- Accretionary Prisms: Piles of sediment scrapped off the subducting
plate and paltered onto continental margin
The Mid Oceanic Ridge
- Rift Valley
- Geologic Activity on the Ridge
- Shallow focus Earthquakes
- High Heat Flow
- Basalt Eruptions
- Submarine Hot springs
- Biologic Activity on the Ridge
- Geomicrobiology
Submarine Hotsprings
- Black smokers
- Spew out black clouds of metal-sulfur compounds
- First observed in 1977 by Alvin submersible
- New Ecosystem:
- » Independent form the sun
- » at 2500 m (8000 ft) depth
- » energy from the hydrothermal vents
- Very strange fauna
- Giant clams
- Tube worms
- Albino crabs
-
Lectures 28- Shorelines
- Reading: Chapter 20 of Tarbuck
and Lutgets, 8th edition
Topics:
- Shoreline processes-Moving water
- Tides
- Waves
- Long shore Currents
- Coastal Features
- Beaches
- Erosional Features
- Marine Terraces
- Headlands
- Depositional Features
- Man-Made Features
-
- Video on the implication of shoreline erosion for coastal
communities
What is a shoreline
- Waves
- Beaches
- Coasts
- Interaction between land and sea
- Area between high and low tide
- Directly affected by storms
Moving Water at the Shore
- Tides
- Waves
- Storms
- Long shore currents
Tides
- Gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun
- (Mostly the moon)
- Water bulges towards the moon
- Solid Earth also deforms (a little)
- Tidal force slows down Earths rotation:
- Days were shorter in the past
- Why two tides a day?
- Gravity is only half of the story
- The other half is centrifugal force
- Rotation of the Earth-Moon system
- Axis of rotation is off center
- A bulge forms opposite the moon as the pair spins
- Effect of the Sun:
Spring tides- sun adds some pull
Neap tides- sun cancels some pull
Sea Waves
- Usually driven by wind
- Sometimes by movement of the seafloor
- Tsunamis
- Produced by earthquakes or submarine landslides
Wind -
Creates Most Ocean Waves
- Wave Height is Controlled by
- 1. Wind Velocity
- 2. Fetch = Amount of Water Surface Subjected to Wind
- How a wave works:
- Deep water: circular motion
- Near shore: Elliptical motion due to interaction with sea
bottom
- Waves feel the bottom at 1/2 wavelength
- Eventually wave is too high to sustain itself and it collapses:
- Breaking wave
- This is why tsunamis are dangerous:
- Low wave height but
.
- Very large wavelengths
= very large wave when it comes onshore
Nearshore Water Circulation
- Wave Refraction
- Waves arrive oblique to coast
- As they get closer they turn to hit the shore head on
- Longshore Currents
- Oblique waves create net movement of water
(and sediment parallel to the coast)
- Rip Currents
- Due to back-flow of water through a restriction
- If caught in one swim parallel to the coast
Beaches
- Beaches
- Beach Face
- Marine Terrace
- Wave-built
- Wave-cut
- Berm- Sand ridge along the beach
- Beach sediment: well sorted sand and gravel
Longshore Drift of Sediment
- Longshore Drift
- Swash/Backwash
- Spit
- Baymouth Bar
-
Coasts and Coastal Features
Erosional Coasts
- Headlands
- Coastal Straightening
- Sea Cliffs
- Wave-cut Platform
- Stacks
- Arches
Depositional Coasts
- Barrier Islands
- Off shore sand ridges
- Formed during low sea level
- They migrate inland as sea level rises
- Tidal Deltas
- Deltas
- Glacial Deposition
Drowned Coasts (rising relative sea level)
Uplifted Coasts (Emergent)
Coasts Shaped by Organisms
- Algal Reefs
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- Human Interference with Sand Drift
- Jetties
- Groins
- Breakwaters
- Sources of Sand on Beaches